Of Chrome and Campfires...

Jacob Gibb PhotographyIt's over already? Fishing buddy Andy Roth and I looked at each other, both sadly puzzled as we headed back south towards the busy city bustle, a cold Lake Superior now 100 miles behind us. The sour smell of wet campfire smoke oozed out of the back of my, gear-stuffed Jeep. Wet mud coated the floor mats. We had just survived three days of cold rain, gnarly North Shore rivers, even the antics of two black-capped chickadees. The odometer had an extra 500 milles on it. Such is the exciting life of steelheaders....
Our journey started Wednesday morning, 9:20 a.m. sharp. Okay, I was 20 minutes late tracking down Andy at our scheduled meeting stop along Interstate 35. Andy is one of the premier trout guides in SE Minnesota and SW Wisconsin. You can find out all about him at: http://www.graygoatflyfishing.com/. Be sure to check out Andy's "Bentley's Balls". They will change the way you fish. Anyway, I digress. Andy and I quickly stuffed our gear (we pack like, well, you know...) into the truck and pointed the front bumper north through Duluth and up Minnesota State Highway 61 along the lake. A quick stop at the French River. Yep, plenty of fish coming in, although they're tough to see, even in the low water, unless you have polarized sunglasses. We hopped back in and continued north towards Temperance River State Park, roughly halfway up the shore. I couldn't help
but pull over at Kendall's ten minutes later to grab "my North Shore regular"; A pound of brown sugar-smoked salmon. Nothing beats a smoke shop that wraps fish in yesterday's headlines. I pushed the accelerator and we zipped up the shore. Our goal was to get base camp set before the rough weather moved in. We had rain and even a hint of late April snow in the forecast. The Jeep pulled into the park, not another soul around. Strangely enough,Temperence sat in a most unusual state. Weeks earlier, a major spring ice storm slapped most of the North Shore. Clearly, the state park had not been spared. Downed birch trees criss-crossed the woods. Giant limbs lay scattered across most of the campsites. Andy and I moved into site #7 and quickly threw up a giant dining fly and then pitched the tent. We could see storm clouds just off to our west and wanted a dry camp. Minutes later, gentle rain started to fall as the two of us piled up dry wood for the week and tucked it away under the tarp. By eight or so, we had settled into our
camp and stared at the fire. Our fishing buddies, Jacob Gibb and Tim Pommer, pulled into camp and wrestled up their tent in the steady rain. After an hour or two of campfire fodder, we all retired to our tents and tucked into warm sleeping bags, the sound of cold rain tapping at our rain flies. As I drifted off to sleep, I could hear Lake Superior slapping at the giant boulders just behind camp. I wondered if steelhead trout were moving along the shore and sneaking into the rivers.....
Morning #1
I rolled out of bed about 7 a.m. to the smell of dark coffee and the sound of the percolator bubbling on the Coleman stove. After a few hot mugs of campfire coffee and a plate of eggs mixed with deeply-burned potatos, Tim and Jacob headed down the shore towards the North Shore FogSpril Rock and Stewart Rivers while Andy and I headed up the shore. The rules of the steelheadin' game work this way: Start driving and stop at every river and stream crossing. If you find good water flows and temps at roughly 40 degrees or above, odds are you've got fresh fish that have come in from the lake. Sometimes, you'll even be lucky enough to spot a fish or two. Andy and I pulled over at our first river, The Cascade, with the biggest of expectations. Muddy, blown water. Next stop? The Poplar. High and blown.
North Shore Haze Jacob Gibb Photography The Devil's Track. Blown. All the way up the shore, we found high, cold water with little or no clarity. To add insult, we fought rain much of the day. We broke down and fished one of my favorite spots up the shore with no takes. We hopped in the truck in our wet waders and headed 60 miles back down the shore. As we neared the Baptism River, the heavy clouds dissipated and we found a bit of sun shining through the wet fog.
Egg pattern flies... Jacob and Tim had come up the shore to meet us after fighting crowds of anglers on the lower shore rivers. The four of us wandered down to the Baptism's high, but otherwise fishable riffles. Water temperature sat right at 40 degrees and the river had its classic, root beer-colored clarity. I hiked down to one of my favorites spots, drifted an egg pattern through the hole a dozen times and hooked a fish on the thirteenth drift. . A fresh chromer rolled and I fought her out of the fast water and up towards the calm water near the gravel bank. As I leaned over to grab her tail,
Tim and Jacob Roll Castingshe rolled and my fly popped out. I watched as the silver-colored fish drifted back into the river's shadows. At best guess, about a 22 inch hen, which is a female. That fish would prove to be the only steelhead any of us would hook on day one. Andy and I called
it quits about dinnertime and decided to head back to camp. Sure enough, we had visitors when we arrived. As Andy worked on a deep pot of his now famous "Gopher MoleStew", a couple of black-capped Chickadees visited our frying pan. I tried to set of my camera on remote to snap a few closer shots. Unfortunately, the little birds got wise to my plan and never came back.....
Morning # 2
Andy and I could hear the sound of songbirds and feel the mild heat of the morning sun baking through the outer skin of the tent. We crawled out to find no clouds and the sun drifting high over the horizon. Buddy Josh Nelson had now joined our "chrome crew" and he and his younger brother decided to roam down the shore to the Split Rock River, where reports of good fishing had funneled into our camp. Jacob, Tim, Andy and I decided to head even further down to the Stewart River, a popular lower shore haunt. We sure weren't the only ones fishing, but the morning proved quite productive. Andy Andy chasin' down one of Tim's big fish...hooked and landed two fresh fish downstream while Jacob, Tim and I worked a couple of upstream holes. Tim ran a stonefly and egg pattern through the whole and finally hooked and landed a nice first fish. A few minutes later, Jacob hooked
Almost got him! up, burying his egg pattern in the mouth of a nice chromer, but couldn't quite seal the deal (ask Jacob about it). Moments later, Tim hooked yet another fish. Andy had since wandered upstream and ran to Tim'said with his net. See, when a big river fish gets hooked, it's
Another big fish landed!
not like bobber fishin' for bluegills. Those fish will muscle you downstream. The big fish sometimes force us to literally run downriver after them, wrestling them in. Andy finally napped Tim's fish and Jacob
A North Shore Beauty..... Jacob Gibb Photography
pulled out his camera and snapped a few of the kind of shots that have helped him develop a reputation of an up-and-coming outdoor photographer (check out his website, www.Jacobbgibbphotography.com).Tim and fish... The rest of the day, we wandered several other rivers, completely content, discussing the merits of North Shore fishing. The merits surrounded us. The sound of moving water. The smell of Lake Superior and the woods. The view of seemingly endless water and fish. As Andy and I drove back to camp later that evening, a favorite song of my played on the radio. I chuckled a bit as I listened to Greg Brown rumble out the lyrics of his fishing song, "Eugene". "Sometimes,you have to go look for your life." "Sometimes, you gotta go not look for nothin'."
Sizing up our next fishing hole.... Jacob Gibb Photography
Yep, exactly what North Shore steelheadin' is all about...